THE MOST EXCLUSIVE AUTOMATIC:THE VACHERON CALIBER 1120 by Walt Odets To my knowledge, there is only a single caliber that has been used by all members of the Swiss watchmaking trinity–Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, and Vacheron Constantin–and by no one else. Designed and manufactured (but not finished) by Jaeger... Read more
THE BALANCE COCK BY WALT ODETS   The balance cock (a cock is a bridge secured to the movement plate at only one end) is shown for all three movements in an inverted position. While the upper surfaces resemble the surfaces of the wheel train bridge, the undersides of... Read more
THE ESCAPE LEVER BY WALT ODETS   The escape lever of a watch meters the power of the gear train to the balance wheel and is thus a critical component in any watch. The escapement of a watch operates at extremely low forces and must do so with astonishing... Read more
ETA AUTOMATIC WINDING WALT ODETS   The automatic winding system first developed by Eterna (which joined ETA in 1932) is certainly the most widely used bidirectional system in the world. With the possible exception of the Jaeger Le Coultre switching-rocker system (which does not rely on click wheels) it... Read more
THE LANGE 1815 UP and DOWN:THE CALIBER L942.1 BY WALT ODETS The Lange & Sohne 1815 Up and Down is perhaps the quintessential Lange watch. Utterly traditional in appearance, it encases the caliber L942.1, a caliber L941.1 with the addition of a true differential power reserve mechanism. The addition... Read more
THE LANGE 1815 UP and DOWN:THE CALIBER L942.1 Part 2 BY WALT ODETS POWER RESERVE DISPLAY The power reserve display is not only a traditional feature on some Lange pocket watches, it is a very useful complication. The display is a reminder that a watch has or or has... Read more
A MOST UNUSUAL HAMILTON RUTLEDGE BY WALT ODETS We live in a time when the Swiss wristwatch, among fine watches, dominates the world. As some collectors know, there were once American companies esteemed among the greats. Not the least of these was the Hamilton Watch Co. of Lancaster, Pennsylvania. The... Read more
THE CHARM OF AUDEMARS PIGUET BY WALT ODETS There was a time, not long ago, when the mention of  Audemars Piguet lightened the hearts and lifted the spirits  of those in love with fine watches.  In recent years, particularly in the US, the name has come to do much... Read more
THE INVENTORY OF A SIMPLE WATCH BY WALT ODETS Mechanical wristwatches are made of parts, small parts, and a lot of them. Even the simplest mechanical watch is comprised of a surprising number of parts, none of which are superfluous. While servicing an Audemars Piguet caliber 2120, I thought it would be... Read more
MAKING A CASE FOR THE ROYAL OAK BY WALT ODETS Born in 1972, the Royal Oak is a good bit younger than The Queen. But they are both stately in their own ways, and they are both long-standing institutions. As with The Queen, I have always experienced the Royal Oak as something... Read more
MAKING A CASE FOR THE ROYAL OAK Part 2 BY WALT ODETS The protection of the movement and function of the large rubber ring are illustrated, right. The magenta lines represent sealed surfaces. The stem tube (at left) is soldered to the metal support ring around the movement and sealed... Read more
THE PURSUIT OF CENTER SECONDS Part 2 BY WALT ODETS DIRECT CENTER SECONDS For the aforementioned reasons, indirect center seconds was not a satisfactory solution for many manufacturers. In 1948, Zenith released the caliber 133. This “bumper” automatic was a 13”’ movement and was, for the time, remarkably thin at 4.9... Read more
THE PATEK ANNUAL CALENDAR MECHANISMby Walt Odets At the 1997 Basel Fair, Patek Philippe introduced its “annual calendar” watch, the Reference 5035. Based on Patek’s familiar caliber 315-SC automatic, the 5035 carries a calendar plate of new concept and design. Perhaps most significantly, this semi-complex calendar provides a guichet... Read more
A HEUER BEFORE IT WAS TAG BY WALT ODETS  In the days before it was Tag Heuer, it was Edouard Heuer. Founded in 1860 in Edouard’s St. Imier workshop, the company quickly became known for timers. Over the first  century of its existence, Heuer was known primarily for hand and wrist... Read more
THE IWC PERPETUAL CALENDAR MECHANISMby Walt Odets IWC greatly surprised the watch-making world in 1985 with its introduction of the Da Vinci (Ref. 3750) at that year’s Basel Fair. Here was an automatic chronograph perpetual calendar at about half the price of its nearest competitor. Additionally, it displayed the... Read more
The IWC Portugieser AutomaticRef. 3531 by Walt Odets In the late 1930’s, IWC received an order from a Portugese customer for a wristwatch the same size and accuracy as a pocket watch. It was delivered, in a steel case. In 1995, IWC released the first contemporary Portugieser, the Ref.... Read more
BASEL ’99 SNEAK-PREVIEW HIGHLIGHTS AUDEMARS PIGUET ANNOUNCES THE NEW “BEYOND MILLENARY” COLLECTION FOR PLANNED INTRODUCTION AT BASEL ’99 by Walt Odets Following on the unparalleled success of its “Millenary” collection, introduced at the 1996 Basel Fair, the prestigious firm of Audemars Piguet of Le Brassus has announced a new... Read more
THE BALANCE WHEEL OF A WATCHby Walt Odets The balance and balance spring are the “regulating organs” of the mechanical wristwatch, and it, therefore, seemed appropriate to begin my series of technical essays here–specifically with the balance wheel itself (I will discuss balance springs in a following piece). It... Read more
THOSE WONDERFUL PIGUET CHRONOGRAPHS BY WALT ODETS In 1987, Piguet first released a remarkable chronograph, the ultra-thin, hand-wound caliber 1180. With a total height of only 3.95 millimeters, it was the thinnest chronograph caliber every produced. A classic column-wheel design with some very novel design twists, it was also... Read more
JESSICA’S CORNAVIN DOLPHIN by Walt Odets In 1974, my friend Jessica was living in New York and working as a waitress in an average coffee shop on Canal Street. It was here that she came across the first–and last–horological love of her life, her Cornavin Dolphin. Out on the... Read more
THE VALJOUX 7750 CHRONOGRAPH BY WALT ODETS If there is a single movement ubiquitous in modestly-priced contemporary chronographs, it is the Valjoux 7750. Introduced in 1974–five years after the famed Zenith El Primero automatic–the movement has been supplied in both 21,600 and 28,800 beat versions. It uses an automatic-winding module... Read more
FUNCTION OF THE ESCAPEMENTIN DETAILBY WALT ODETS The following series of six drawings explains the entire cycle of the escapement and is worth detailed study. The series is taken from “Practical Watch Repairing,” by Donald de Carle, N.A.G. Press, Ipswich, Suffolk, 1969 (unfortunately currently out of print). Read more
  A COMPARISON OF THE KEYLESS WORKS IN A PATEK AND A LANGE BY WALT ODETS There has been much discussion about the relative qualities of the Lange and Patek. Both are obviously very finely made watches.  I have also felt that there are certain failures of craft in the Lange... Read more
THOSE WONDERFUL PIGUET CHRONOGRAPHS PART 2 BY WALT ODETS MINUTE AND HOUR ACCUMULATORS The vertical clutch design offers another benefit difficult to obtain with a conventional switched intermediate wheel. As illustrated left, the upper center wheel pinion carries both the heart cam (1) and a plate with finger (2).... Read more
TWEAKING THE MARK XII: PART ONE by Walt Odets In the 1970’s, I was a pilot flying printing plates, bags of canceled checks, and the occasional dead body, also in a bag. People wanted their magazines and definitely wanted their money. And some died away from home, and their... Read more
THE VALJOUX 7750 CHRONOGRAPH Part 2 BY WALT ODETS   OTHER FEATURES OF THE TOP PLATE The Valjoux 7750 uses a sturdy and convenient semi-fine rate regulation device.  The index (right, 1) is moved to adjust the daily rate of the watch.  Attached to an eccentric screw (2), this... Read more

Wheel Train Bridge

The Horologium September 16, 2002

THE WHEEL TRAIN BRIDGE BY WALT ODETS   The wheel train bridge carries the upper pivots of the center wheel (usually), third wheel, fourth wheel, and, sometimes, the escape wheel. The JLC bridge (1A) shows first-class finish. In addition to the sturdy construction and very fine machining, which provides... Read more
VINTAGE VACHERON BY WALT ODETS What has four wings, flies only in circles, and always wants to land back on your wrist?  For one thing, a Vacheron &  Constantin wristwatch from about 1940.More properly, the Vacheron shown right has, not wings, but triple-tiered teardrop lugs.  It is a classic... Read more
THE PATEK PHILIPPELIGHT-WOUND CLOCK by Walt Odets Nearly a half century ago–in 1950–Patek Philippe began marketing an extraordinary invention, the “light-wound” table clock. The clock required no regular winding and, after full charge, was capable of running in complete darkness for a year. Furthermore, Patek claimed a very impressive... Read more
TWEAKING THE MARK XII: PART 2.1 THE CONCEPT OF TIMING by Walt Odets Having switched the original Mark XII caliber 884 for a caliber 887 (see “Tweaking the Mark XII: Part 1“), I spent in excess of 50 hours tweaking the escapement of the 887 to see if I... Read more
DON’T ASK ME WHY THEY CALL IT THE TIME CUBE By Walt Odets Can we talk?  Is there anything about this automatic watch winder (right) that reminds you of a cube?  Are there eight days in the week?  Sixteen months in the year?  One hundred and two years until... Read more
THE OMEGA CO-AXIAL:AN IMPRESSIVE ACHIEVEMENT By Walt Odets At the 1999 Basel Watch and Jewelry Fair, Omega announced a new watch for the DeVille line: a chronometer-rated, limited edition watch. Although based on the Omega caliber 2500, an ETA 2892 derivative, the watch would, remarkably, be supplied with a... Read more
  VINTAGE VACHERON PART 2 BY WALT ODETS  The bottom plate of the caliber 452 is finished as handsomely as the top plate.  The screwed cap jewel plate for the lower balance pivot is visible at 8 o’clock.            The keyless works exhibits  classic Swiss design.  But note the... Read more
THE A-B-C’S OF WATCH FINISH by Walt Odets The subject of watch “finish” is often cited as important, and often given as the explanation for the high cost of a watch that runs at no more consistent a rate–in the short term, at least–than other watches at a fraction... Read more
TWEAKING THE MARK XII: PART 2.2 BASIC PRINCIPLES OF WATCH ADJUSTING by Walt Odets I have already discussed the concepts of watch timing (“Tweaking the Mark XII: Part 2.1“). In this part of the series, I will discuss the principles used in actually timing a watch. Understanding these principles... Read more
THE ZENITH CHRONOGRAPH BY WALT ODETS Zenith is a company with a history extending back to 1865, and is widely recognized for technical innovation and good quality watches. In 1967, Zenith introduced its arguably most interesting technical accomplishment, the caliber 1724. This movement, by substituting a planetary gearset for much of the... Read more
THE OMEGA CO-AXIAL:AN IMPRESSIVE ACHIEVEMENT Part 2 By Walt Odets WORKMANSHIP On first examination of the movement, what is most striking is the quality of the workmanship. While not an exercise in the finest, most time-consuming craftsmanship, this Omega caliber radiates the kind of fundamental quality that Omega has... Read more
  PATEK PHILIPPE’S BREAD AND BUTTER:THE CALIBER 215 BY WALT ODETS   If Patek Philippe has a bread-and-butter line, it is the series of simple, hand wound watches represented by the Calatrava and Gondolo lines. With a few exceptions, contemporary versions of these watches are all designed around the caliber... Read more
DIRECT DRIVE:THE REMARKABLE BULOVA ACCUTRONCALIBER 214 By Walt Odets The very brief technical superiority of the Accutron watch is, perhaps, one of the best known facts about the design.  The Accutron improved immensely upon the early “electronic” watch, which replaced the mainspring with a battery but established rate with... Read more