Timezone Features April 7, 2014 Timezone Feature
Live Photos: NOMOS Glashütte at Baselworld 2014
For 2014, NOMOS Glashütte continues to assert its independence as a German manufactory by developing its own swing system (escapement). Only a few watchmaking companies in the world manufacture their own escapement assembly and NOMOS invested €11 million to develop its own “swing system” assembly. Last year, NOMOS integrated its swing system assembly into 10,000 of its watch movements on a trial-basis and, this year, NOMOS continues to expand the use of the swing system in its new manufacture movements engraved “Deutsche Uhrenwerke NOMOS Glashütte”, or “DUW” for short. This designation stands for the fact that NOMOS produces nearly every component part, from its own escape wheel to its own pallet lever to its own gear wheels and even a heat-blued balance spring that is made for NOMOS in Germany.
The Metro is this year’s most exciting NOMOS novelty because the stylish watch houses the new in-house DUW 4401 with the NOMOS swing system. Last year’s popular Ahoi dive watch adds a dark blue variation, the Ahoi Atlantik with or without date. The Tetra unisex collection adds four “Berlin Mix” colours to appeal to men and women. Finally, we get a hands-on look at the new Lux and Lambda dress watches in 18-carat gold and fitted with the high-grade manufacture DUW movements with twin barrels that are hand-finished and hand-engraved.
Metro is this year’s most exciting NOMOS novelty because the stylish watch with patented large date and power reserve indicator is designed by prize-winning Berlin designer Mark Braun. Mark Braun initially collaborated with NOMOS solely for the Metro timepiece; however, the collaboration was so successful that Mark Braun has now joined the NOMOS team as head of the 3D Design Department. The Metro measures 37mm in diameter and houses the entirely new, thin and in-house DUW 4401 with the NOMOS swing system. The 17-jewel manual winding movement is individually numbered on the 3/4 plate and beautifully finished with Glashütte stripes, sunburst ratchet and crown wheels, heat-blued screws and perlage decorated mainplate. Some of the thoughtful movement features include a big balance wheel, hacking seconds and an integrated power reserve that results in a movement just 2.8mm thick (case height 7.65 mm). Under its domed sapphire crystal, the galvanised white dial is highly legible with its silver hands and red hand for the small seconds. The Metro is fitted with a beautiful Horween Shell Cordovan handmade strap with an integrated quick-change system for the wire-style tube lugs. Retail is a respectable $3,780.
Metro by Berlin designer Mark Braun
Individually numbered NOMOS in-house caliber DUW 4401
Deutsche Uhrenwerke NOMOS Glashütte means “German watch movements NOMOS Glashütte”
Exclusive for TimeZone is a look at the new Tangente Gangreserve that houses the in-house DUW 4301 with NOMOS swing system. The new DUW calibers is being introduced in the Metro collection, and slowly introduced in certain models in the Tangente and Tetra collections, with the ultimate goal of housing in-house movements in all NOMOS watches. In the accompanying movement photo, the NOMOS heat-blued balance spring can be seen under the balance wheel:
Individually numbered NOMOS in-house caliber DUW 4301
The Ahoi Atlantik is the latest NOMOS dive watch. The two-part 40mm stainless steel case frames a dark blue (“Atlantic blue”) lacquer dial. The dial is contrasted by rose gold numerals and minute markers, as well as rose gold hands filled with Super-Luminova. A lacquer red hand indicates the seconds. The Ahoi Atlantik houses the NOMOS Epsilon caliber (without date) or Zeta caliber (with date) and is water-resistant to 20 atm (200 meters). The timepiece is fitted with the same woven textile strap well-known to anyone who has gone swimming in Germany and received a locker key. Retail is $4,060 (without date) or $4,660 (with date).
Ahoi Atlantik Datum
Tetra – Berlin Mix
The Tetra Berlin Mix is inspired by the colours of the German capital and fitted with grey suede straps. The square stainless steel case measures 29.5mm x 29.55mm x 6.3mm and is fitted with a square sapphire crystal and gold-plated hands. The four new colours are: Kleene (turquoise), Clärchen (green), Goldelse (rose gold) and Nachtijall (midnight blue). The Kleene model features a dial with a power reserve indication and is fitted with the new DUW 4301 manual-wind movement with the newly developed NOMOS swing system. The Tetra Kleene retails for $2,920, the Goldelse is $2,390, the Clärchen is $2,320 and Nachtijall is $2,320.
Tetra Berlin Mix
Tetra Kleene with turquoise lacquer dial and new DUW 4301 manual-wind movement
Tetra Clärchen with green lacquer dial and Alpha manual-wind movement
Tetra Goldelse with rose gold dial and Alpha manual-wind movement
Tetra Nachtijall with midnight blue dial and Alpha manual-wind movement
Gold Dress Watch Collection
Lux is a dress watch with an 18-carat white gold tonneau case that measures size 40.5 mm by 36 mm x 8.95 mm. The dial is available in either galvanised white or galvanised white with light blue. The manufacture DUW 2002 caliber is a 23-jewel manual wind movement with twin mainspring barrels that result in an 84-hour power reserve. The movement is beautifully finished with angled and bevelled edges, five gold chatons, a swan neck fine adjustment, hand-engraved balance cock that reads “Mit Liebe in Glashütte gefertigt” (or lovingly produced in Glashütte) and a rhodium-plated 3/4 plate with sunbeam finish. Finally, the Lux is fitted with a Horween Shell Cordovan handmade strap with 18-carat white gold tang buckle. Retail is $21,500.
Lambda is a round dress watch with an 18-carat white or rose gold 42 mm case and either a white or granulated silver dial with power reserve indicator. The manufacture DUW 1001 caliber is a 29-jewel manual wind movement with twin mainspring barrels that result in an 84-hour power reserve. The movement is beautifully finished with angled and bevelled edges, gold chatons, a swan neck fine adjustment, hand-engraved balance cock that reads “Mit Liebe in Glashütte gefertigt” (or lovingly produced in Glashütte) and a rhodium-plated 3/4 plate with sunbeam finish. Finally, the Lambda is fitted with a Horween Shell Cordovan handmade strap with 18-carat white or rose gold tang buckle. Retail is $18,500 in rose gold and $20,000 in white gold.
NOMOS Lux and Lambda watches with 18-carat gold cases
Lux with 18K WG tonneau case
Lux with 18K WG tonneau case and white & light blue dial
Lux with 18K WG tonneau case and white dial
Lux with in-house DUW 2002 manual wind movement
Individually numbered DUW 2002 with sunbeam finished 3/4 plate, gold chatons, swan neck regulator & engraved balance cock
Lambda with 18K white gold case and white galvanised dial
Lambda with 18K rose gold case and silvered dial
Lambda with in-house DUW 1001 manual wind movement
Individually numbered DUW 1001 with sunbeam finished 3/4 plate, gold chatons, swan neck regulator & engraved balance cock
Finishing details on the DUW 1001
See also German Watch Forum Live Photos: NOMOS Glashütte at Baselworld 2014
Photos: Paul Boutros