Timezone Features March 26, 2014 Timezone Feature
Live Basel Report: Bulgari at Baselworld 2014
An Italian jeweller by origin, Bulgari is applying the same type of creativity and exacting attention to detail to its watch manufacturing. Now fully integrated, Bulgari employs over 350 watchmakers to produce its own movements, cases, bracelets and dials. Beginning with its distinctive eight-sided Octo collection, Bulgari introduces two manufacture ultra-thin calibres in the Octo Finissimo Tourbillon and the Octa Finissimo.
Octo Finissimo Tourbillon
At a remarkable height of just 1.95 mm, the manufacture Finissimo Tourbillon calibre is an ultra-thin, 11-jewel hand wound movement with flying Tourbillon that holds the distinction of being the thinnest movement with a tourbillon ever made. Despite its extreme thinness, the efficient design results in a 55-hour power reserve. The platinum case measures 40 mm x 5 mm.
Octo Finissimo Tourbillon is the world’s thinnest movement with a tourbillon
The Octo Finissimo Tourbillon calibre is only 1.95 mm thick, and the total case height is only 5 mm
The Tourbillon carriage is mounted on a peripherally-driven ultra-thin ball-bearing mechanism
Detail of the one-minute flying Tourbillon and the black lacquer dial
Detail of the manufacture Finissimo Tourbillon calibre
The Octo Finissimo is an ultra-thin hand wound mechanical timepiece with an offset small seconds. The manufacture Finissimo calibre is a 26-jewel, mechanical hand wound movement that measures only 2.23 mm thick. The total case height of the platinum case measures just 5 mm thick. Unfortunately, the only example of the timepiece available on press day was secured in the display and difficult to photograph. With its 40 mm x 5 mm platinum case, it is both elegant and sophisticated.
The platinum case is a mere 5 mm thick
A glimpse at the beautifully finished manufacture Finissimo calibre
Ladies Lvcea Collection
The Lvcea is a new ladies collection available with either a mechanical (automatic) or quartz movement, and the choice of either a 33mm (automatic) or 28mm (quartz) diameter case made in either stainless steel, two-tone or all 18-carat pink gold. The Lvcea bracelet is inspired by the segmented coils of the haute joaillerie Serpenti bracelet watch. A total of 14 references are available for the launch of the Lvcea collection.
Naomi Watts is the brand ambassador who endorses the new Lvcea collection
18-carat pink gold Lvcea with guilloché dial
Ladies Haute Joaillerie
Bvlgari Bvlgari Lady
The beautiful new Bvlgari Bvlgari Lady jewellery timepieces measure 33mm in diameter and house mechanical automatic winding movements.
18-carat pink gold case set with 36 diamonds and Aventurine dial
18-carat pink gold case set with 36 diamonds and Heart of ruby stone dial
Launched last year at Baselworld 2013, the audacious Berries collection adds two new limited edition variations.
The Berries Jumping Hours and Retrograde Minutes is a jumping hours timepiece with retrograde minutes. The 40mm 18-carat white gold case is gem-set with 133 brilliant-cut diamonds and 7 emeralds. The timepiece houses a 26-jewel manufacture Calibre GG 1002 automatic movement with 45-hour power reserve.
The jumping hours are framed by diamonds and gemstones. At the end of every hour, the minutes hand instantly jumps 180° from the left side 60 to the right side 00.
The white mother of pearl marquetery dial is formed by 10 symmetrical segments. The satin strap is fitted with an 18-carat white gold deployment clasp set with 28 diamonds.
Berries Jumping Hours and Retrograde Minutes
The Berries Tourbillon Retrograde Hours is a retrograde hours timepiece. The 40mm 18-carat white gold case is gem-set with 63 brilliant-cut diamonds and 7 rubies. The white mother of pearl marquetery dial is formed by 15 symmetrical segments.
At precisely 6 o’clock, the retrograde hours hand jumps instantly 240° from the right-side 6 to the left-side 6. Meanwhile, the minutes hand rotates clockwise.
The timepiece houses a 56-jewel manufacture Calibre BVL 313 automatic movement with a Tourbillon mounted on a sapphire crystal bridge. The satin strap is fitted with an 18-carat white gold deployment clasp set with 28 diamonds. Production is limited to just 25 pieces.
Berries Tourbillon Retrograde Hours
Il Giardino Marino di Bvlgari (The Marine Garden of Bulgari)
Finally, Il Giardino Marino di Bvlgari continues Bulgari’s nature theme of this ladies collection. The champlevé enamel dial is crafted using a number of mastered techniques. First, the maritime design is carved into a gold base. Then, a master gem-setter sets brilliant cut diamonds into the starfish and coral. Next, a master enameller fills the cavities with moist powdered enamel. Dark blue lacquer, evoking the pure depths of the ocean, provides a delicate background matched by the transparency of beautiful sapphires. The overall effect is of a shoal of fish floating in crystal-clear waters, with sparkling starfish amongst the foliage of precious coral. After each layer is applied, the dial is cleaned and fired in a kiln. A single dial may require up to 25 kiln firings. Finally, after polishing, the tropical enamel design is set onto an ivory lacquer base dial.
The colourful dial is framed by a 37mm 18-carat pink gold case. The timepiece is fitted with a 56-jewel manufacture Calibre GG 9051 automatic movement with a Tourbillon mounted on a sapphire crystal bridge.
See also Live from Basel: Bulgari at Baselworld 2014
Photos: Paul Boutros