TZ Blogs September 12, 2013 Timezone Feature
Our friends at Bulgari provide TimeZone with this exclusive hands-on look at their new ladies timepieces, including the new BVLGARI BVLGARI Catene bracelet watch, two sensual additions to the iconic Serpenti Collection, and three boldly designed complications.
BVLGARI BVLGARI Catene
Popularised in the 1970s, the BVLGARI BVLGARI collection is distinguished by a bezel engraved with a double logo of the family’s name as a graphic. Playing off this signature design cue, the new BVLGARI BVLGARI Catene is a double chain link bracelet watch crafted in solid 18-carat pink gold and gem-set with 60 brilliant cut diamonds. The bracelet, alone, weighs a substantive 140 grams (~4.9 ounces). The 31mm pink gold case frames a white mother of pearl dial with twelve diamond hour markers. The case weighs an additional 31.08 grams (~1.1 ounces). The crown is set with a pink rubellite.
BVLGARI BVLGARI Catene with semi-pavé double chain link gold bracelet
Tthe snake motif of the Serpenti coiled bracelet watch represents everything from birth, rebirth, beauty, sexuality and wisdom in Greek mythology and Roman civilisation. Elizabeth Taylor famously wore her Bulgari Serpenti while filming Cleopatra in 1962 and, in 2011, it auctioned for nearly $1 million at her estate sale.
For 2013, Bulgari continues the legacy of its most emblematic timepiece with the addition of two jewellery models. One features an 18-carat pink gold case set with brillant-cut diamonds, a black sapphire dial and a two twirls bracelet gem-set with brilliant-cut diamonds. The other features an 18-carat white gold case set with brilliant-cut diamonds, a white mother of pearl dial and a two twirls bracelet gem-set with brilliant-cut diamonds and agate.
26mm black sapphire dial with diamond indexes, REF. SPP26BGD1GD2O.2T
26mm black white mother of pearl dial with diamond indexes, Ref. SPW26WGD1GD2A.2T
A two twirls bracelet gem-set with diamonds and agate
Il Giardino Tropicale di Bulgari (Tropical Garden of Bulgari)
Il Giardino Tropicale di Bulgari is Bulgari’s first tourbillon designed and created for ladies. The champlevé enamel dial is crafted using a number of mastered techniques. First, the tropical design is carved into a gold base. Then, a master gem-setter sets brilliant cut diamonds into some of the flower petals and branches. Next, a master enameller fills the cavities with moist powdered enamel. Three layers of enamel are applied for the flowers, five layers for the leaves and eight layers for the parrot. After each layer is applied, the dial is cleaned and fired in a kiln. A single dial may require up to 25 kiln firings. Finally, after polishing, the tropical enamel design is set onto an ivory lacquer base dial.
The colourful dial is framed by a 37mm 18-carat pink gold case. The timepiece is fitted with a 56-jewel Calibre GG 9051 automatic movement with a Tourbillon mounted on a sapphire crystal bridge. Production is limited to just 50 pieces.
Il Giardino Tropicale di Bulgari, Ref. BBLP37PDGLTB
The champlevé enamel dial begins with a tropical design carved into a gold base
A single dial may require 25 kiln firings and can take two weeks to handcraft
The parrot is perched on a Tourbillon mounted on a sapphire crystal bridge
56-jewel Calibre GG 9051 automatic movement
Bulgari’s signature jewellery style mixes heavy gold with large vibrant gemstones, and its new Berries timepiece collection is a perfect reflection of this audacious style.
The Berries Jumping Hours and Retrograde Minutes is a jumping hours timepiece with retrograde minutes. The 40mm 18-carat pink gold case is gem-set with 133 brilliant-cut diamonds and 7 colored gemstones, including two emeralds, two tourmalines, one sapphire, one ruby and an amethyst. The timepiece houses a 26-jewel Calibre GG 1002 automatic movement with 45-hour power reserve.
The jumping hours are framed by diamonds and gemstones. At the end of every hour, the minutes hand instantly jumps 180° from the left side 60 to the right side 00.
The white mother of pearl marquetery dial is formed by 10 symmetrical segments. The satin strap is fitted with an 18-carat pink gold deployment clasp set with 28 diamonds.
Berries Jumping Hours and Retrograde Minutes, Ref. BEP40GD2LR
The crown is set with a pink tourmaline
26-jewel Calibre GG 1002 automatic movement
The Berries Tourbillon Retrograde Hours is a retrograde hours timepiece. The 40mm 18-carat pink gold case is gem-set with 63 brilliant-cut diamonds and 7 colored gemstones, including two emeralds, two tourmalines, one sapphire, one ruby and an amethyst. The white mother of pearl marquetery dial is formed by 15 symmetrical segments.
At precisely 6 o’clock, the retrograde hours hand jumps instantly 240° from the right-side 6 to the left-side 6. Meanwhile, the minutes hand rotates clockwise.
The timepiece houses a 56-jewel Calibre BVL 313 automatic movement with a Tourbillon mounted on a sapphire crystal bridge. The satin strap is fitted with an 18-carat pink gold deployment clasp set with 28 diamonds. Production is limited to just 25 pieces.
Berries Tourbillon Retrograde Hours, Ref. BEP40WGD2LTB
Calibre BVL 313 automatic movement with a Tourbillon mounted on a sapphire crystal bridge
The black satin strap is fitted with a deployment clasp decorated with 28 diamonds